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Tuesday, March 01, 2005

How to find your most flattering colors

By Bridgette Raes

This week a reader wrote in asking me to help her assess which colors are best for her to wear:

I have a hard time telling whether I am cool or warm or what “season” I am. My eyes are green tinged with grey and my hair is a mousy blonde that I frost in cooler tones. My guess is that I'm a summer. But I also like to wear the cool crisp colors within the spring palette, especially sage. I can wear clear pink year round, but look icky in peach, unless I have a pretty good tan. Any makeup or clothing tips that can help me know once and for all what season I am?

She specifically asked what season she is. Many of you may have heard of your personal coloring being defined by a season. Seasonal color analysis has been around for at least twenty years and became wildly popular with the famous book Color Me a Season. While unfortunately Seasonal Color Analysis got a very negative reputation as something cheesy 80’s, I am certified to perform seasonal color analysis on clients, and even though I would be the first to admit that the there are some holes to this procedure, I still think it is an interesting way to help a client identify their best colors.

Being able to tell someone, like this reader whom I have never met before, what season they are is virtually impossible. Also, being able to explain to anyone how to analyze their own colors is even more impossible. When I became certified in the seasonal color analysis process, I took an intensive two-day course. However, there are some strategies I can offer to you on how to choose your most flattering colors. But first, let me preface all my advice by saying this: The information I am about to give you cannot replace getting a color analysis professionally done. These are some simple strategies that you can try, and while I hope you find them effective, this information in no way should substitute for an actual color analysis.
So, on to the self-color-analysis!

To prepare

The first thing you have to do if you are going to analyze your colors is to remove all of your makeup. Pull your hair away from your face, especially if it is color treated. Wear a white shirt or top – wearing a colored shirt will skew the analysis. Also, make sure the lighting in the room is as close to natural sunlight as possible. Try to avoid doing this analysis in a room that has very bold color on the wall. Doing all of this will ensure the truest color analysis possible.

Let’s talk about color

When I first analyze a client’s colors, I put colored drapes over a client’s shoulders. On one shoulder I place a group of colors that are cool, or blue based. On the other shoulder I place a group of colors that are warm or yellow based.

I do this to figure out if a client’s undertones are warm or cool. I then take these the drapes and drape each of the colors across a client’s face. So I put a warm drape in front of a client’s face, right under their chin to see how it looks, and then I put a cool drape under a client’s chin to see how their face reacts to a cooler color. I try several warm and cool drapes to arrive at my diagnosis. By the time I have tried every color, it becomes pretty obvious whether a client has warm or cool undertones. Usually a client quickly offers their opinions about how they think a color looks on them and usually they are spot on.

If the choice isn’t so obvious, the next step is to drape metallic silver and gold drapes under a clients face to see which is the most flattering. Usually this makes the diagnosis clear.

If you want to figure out if your undertones are warm or cool, try this:
Take large fabrics in the following colors
For warm colors: Peach Brown Camel Orange
For cool colors: Dusty Pink Magenta Grey Black

If you can’t find large fabrics in these colors, an alternative is to use any shirt or top that you may have in these colors. If these colors don’t exist in your wardrobe or a friend’s wardrobe, you can try using large construction paper in the above colors. As long as the pieces that you are draping under chin are large enough you should be ok. Another solution you can try is to gather a bunch of your girlfriends together for this experiment. Before you get together, try to have everyone collectively find the above colors in their wardrobe, hopefully among all of you, you can find all the colors listed above. Make it a great night and take turns draping colors across your face.

One of the best ways to see how different colors affect people differently is to see colors on people with varying personal coloring. One time, I color analyzed three sisters in one afternoon, all three sisters had totally different coloring and they were all amazed just how different all the colors looked on each other. It was a great example of how different we all look in certain colors.

The best way to start process is to alternate a warm color with a cool color under your face. First, start with peach, then try the dusty pink, follow with the orange, then try the magenta, next the camel, after the grey and finally finish with the brown and then the black. It is important to alternate between warm and cool.

While putting each color under your face, take time to look at how each color affects your coloring. If a color is good for you, it will look flattering, make you look rested, and even look like you have swept a little makeup on your face. If the color is bad, you may notice that you look washed out, fine lines or shadows on your face will be more apparent and you won’t think you look good.

Keep in mind that the colors you are using to test your undertones don’t necessarily have to be colors you love. Try to keep your personal feelings about the colors out of this. We are only trying to figure out if you have warm or cool undertones. The other benefit to doing this with a group of girlfriends is to gather the opinions of others. Sometimes we are unable to see how a color directly affects us. By getting the opinion of others, and in addition seeing how the colors look on your friends can help.

If you are still having trouble, try the metallic test. Unfortunately you will have to use metallic fabrics so if you don’t anything metallic silver or gold, try your local fabric store for cheap fabrics in these metallic shades. Place the gold under your chin and look at your face and then the silver. If gold looks good on you, you have warm undertones, and if silver looks better, you have cool undertones.

It is rare that people look good in both warm and cool, but it does happen, primarily with women of color. If you are a woman of color and you find that you look good in both warm and cool colors, don’t worry. I will explain more about that later on.
Now you have figured out whether you have warm or cool undertones. You have now come one step closer to knowing your season.

If you have warm undertones, you are either a spring or an autumn. If you have cool undertones, you are either a summer or winter.

How to identify if you are a spring or an autumn

The reason we refer to different personal color palettes as seasons is because the colors found in each particular color season have certain qualities to them that are synonymous with the colors of that season. For example, spring is the season of birth and new life. Buds are forming on the trees, flowers are blossoming into the sweet-smelling air, and the wind feels marvelous on bare skin. This is the time when everything begins to start up again, when we become more energetic, excited about life, and develop a zest for each passing day.

Therefore, the colors of spring are clear and vibrant, with a crisp quality to them. The spring palette perfectly represents all the lively colors of the season. These colors have a warmer yellow base and give off a pleasant, bright and cheery radiance.

Conversely autumn is the season of rugged richness. Landscapes are filled with marvelous vibrant color. It is a time for harvest, a time for preparation for the upcoming months of winter’s chill. Autumn is rich in earthy colors, a harmonious palette of warmth, strength, and brilliance.

The colors of autumn are warm and earthy, with a rich depth to them. The autumn palette perfectly represents all the harmonious colors of any clear autumn day. These colors have a deep, rich warmer yellow base and give off a rugged outdoorsy feel.

Breaking down the differences of spring and autumn palettes

The biggest difference between the palettes is that spring is a very light, clear and airy color palette. There is a vibrancy to the spring palette. Just like the colors of spring, which are very lively, energetic clear and crisp, people who fall into the spring color palette have the same qualities in their own coloring. People who have spring coloring look best in clear lively lower contrasting colors and often look good in playful spring-like combinations like pink and green, lavender and yellow. Celebrities who have classic spring coloring are Diane Sawyer, Goldie Hawn, Glen Close, Meg Ryan, Naomi Watts and the Olsen twins.

Some classic spring colors are coral, camel, grassy greens, lavenders, tans, salmon shades, periwinkle, ivory, tangerine and watermelon shades.

The autumn palette is much deeper and darker than the spring palette. Truly, the only thing that the autumn and spring palette share are that they are yellow based. Just as the colors of autumn are more muted, rugged, deeper, intense and natural, people with an autumn coloring also have that same quality to their own coloring. People who have autumn coloring look best in rich lower contrasting colors and often look good in the colors of autumn, or rich shades like teal. Celebrities who have an autumn coloring are Julianne Moore, Katherine Hepburn, Sigourney Weaver, Julia Roberts and Jamie Lee Curtis.

Some classic autumn colors are teal, brown, orange, deep greens, olive, mustard shades, purple, vicuna and deep camel.

Can you see the striking difference between the celebrity springs and the celebrity autumns? What you want to ask yourself first is whose coloring most resembles yours?

How to identify if you are a summer or a winter

Summer is the season of quiet laziness. The weather is warm, the air is heavy, and everything moves with a weighted softness. This is the time when everything slows down after the spring rush of birth. Summer is also a time of quiet elegance, flowers dangle from their stems with a soft heaviness; breezes delicately tickle the grass as it rushes through fields. People who have summer coloring look best in soft blended lower contrasting colors.

The colors of summer are soft and muted with a pastel quality to them. These colors have a cooler cool blue base to them and give off a subtle soft energy.

Winter on the other hand is the season of stillness, of frigidness. This is the time for hibernation, when we all are quiet and still. Winter is also a time of contrasts, sharp edges against softly fallen snow; bitter days against winter’s elegance.

The colors of winter are clear, crisp, bright, and bold. These colors have a cooler icier base to them and give off a lot of power. People who have winter coloring look best in solids and strong contrasting colors.

Breaking down the differences of summer and winter palettes

The biggest difference between the summer and winter palettes is that summer is a very light, pastel and muted color palette, there is a quiet softness to the summer palette. Just like the colors of summer which are very soft, lazy, quiet and have a supple feeling to them, people who are springs have the same qualities in their own coloring. Celebrities who have a classic summer coloring are Linda Evans, Brooke Shields, Isabella Rosellini, Grace Kelly and Paul Newman.

Some classic summer colors are dusty rose, soft pinks, pastel purples, light grays, taupe shades, mauves and pastel blues.

The winter palette is much deeper and energetic than the summer palette. The only thing that the autumn and summer palettes share are that they are blue based. Just as the colors of winter are much deeper, rich, intense, vibrant and bold, people with a winter coloring also have that same quality to their own coloring. Celebrities who have a winter coloring are Connie Chung, Paloma Picasso, Liz Taylor, Diana Ross, Sandra Oh and Selma Blair.

Can you see the striking difference between the celebrity summers and the celebrity winters? What you want to ask yourself first is whose coloring most resembles yours?

Some classic winter colors are hunter green, royal blue, bright red, magenta, deep purple, any gemstone shades and, rejoice winters, black works the best on winter coloring.

Doing your own seasonal draping

When I work one-on-one with a client, after assessing whether they are warm or cool, I then proceed to drape them in spring and autumn colors if they have warm undertones, or summer and winter colors if they have cool undertones.

By doing this, I can ultimately determine which season they are. If you are still having a tough time finding your season, start draping the classic colors for each season across your face. The best way to see which colors work best for you is to actually try them across your face. If you desperately want to drape some colors, but can’t get your hands on them, go to a store where they sell knit tops in a variety of colors. Take a bunch of varying colors into a dressing room and try them on. The salespeople may think you are crazy, but who cares?

Further identifying your season

Another way of looking at color is by comparing the similarities of spring and summer and then the similarities of autumn and winter.

While it doesn’t make sense at first to compare spring to summer because the bases of the two colors are different, spring is warm and summer is cool, what these two palettes do share is a light, lofty airiness about them. The colors of these two palettes are much lighter than autumn and winter. What the autumn and winter palette share is the fact that both of these palettes are very anchored, they are deep, bold, striking, strong and intense. Unlike the lightness of the spring and summer palettes, autumn and winter have tremendous depth.

If you are having a hard time identifying your undertones as warm or cool, another way to approach this is to look at your own depth of coloring. If your own personal coloring is much lighter and not very intense or deep, you are most likely a spring or a summer. But if your coloring is very intense, you are more than likely a winter or an autumn.

To further identify which season you are, the difference between spring and summer, aside from having a different base shades, is that spring is very bright and cheery, and summer is very soft and muted. The differences between autumn and winter, aside from the differences of the base shades in these seasons, is that autumn is very muted and rugged, and winter is very crisp and bright. If you are still confused, most springs never look good in mauve while summers look great in that shade and most autumns rarely look good in royal blue but winters look fantastic in it.

Some immediate color solutions

I said earlier that it is true that women of color can be either an autumn or a winter. I will avoid getting into why this is so, but will say that it really is the choice of the woman which season she feels most comfortable wearing. There is a slight exception to this – women who have very dark skin are usually winters. However, many times it can go either way, autumn or winter. In one experience I draped two women of color, both of whom had practically the same exact level of personal coloring and one chose winter and the other chose autumn as their preference. So those of you who are of African American descent, you have a choice where most others do not.
Another quick tip is if you are a natural redhead, you are most likely an autumn, especially if your eyes are green or brown. Lastly, people of Asian descent are usually winters.

Universal Colors

There are colors out there that are called universal colors. These are colors that no matter what your season is, they will usually work. Some people disagree with this, but that’s normally not because these colors don’t work, but because they have a personal aversion to them. Remember, color is psychological.

These universal colors are: Soft white Medium grey Periwinkle Medium turquoise
Teal Watermelon red Medium violet Coral or Warm pink Navy

When in doubt these colors will most likely be good choices for anyone.

Take this info to the makeup counter

Once you identify your season, this not only will work for your clothing but your makeup as well!

Again, I cannot reiterate enough that everything I just said should not be a substitute for an actual color analysis. If you are still questioning what your season is and you would like to know once and for all what are your best colors, I encourage to have your colors personally analyzed by a certified professional.

Many of my clients who have been analyzed find the experience to be an enjoyable and an eye-opening experience. Bridgette Raes Style Group does offer color analysis and if you would like more information about having your colors analyzed by us, please contact us for an appointment. The cost of a color analysis is only $150 and includes a free swatch book containing over 200 of your most suited colors.

A color analysis demystifies the world of color for many people and trust me, shopping becomes a much more pleasant experience when you can bypass racks of clothing from a distance simply because you know the colors just don’t work.

If you would like to schedule a color analysis with us, call us at 212-414-8059 or email us at info@bridgetteraes.com. Unfortunately, because color analysis needs to be done in person, we are only able to offer this service in the NYC area. To find someone who performs a color analysis in your area, contact us and hopefully we will be able to put you in touch with someone in your area who can analyze your colors.

(c) 2005 Bridgette Raes Style Group