Bridgette Raes Style Group Newsletter Annex

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Sunday, February 19, 2006

Show style a little love

By Bridgette Raes

Ladies, we have all been guilty of putting ourselves last - behind our jobs, our partners, our children, or our schedules. No matter who we are, we have all chosen something to supersede our own self love at one point or another in our lives. Throw a little love your own way by choosing to do at least one of these ten loving things for your style.

10. Avoid wardrobe abuse

I wrote an article a few months ago introducting the term “wardrobe abuse.” If you find that you are being haphazard with your clothing, it may be a victim of this crime. Now before I call the authorities on you because you are an abusive clothing owner, take a few minutes to understand why you may be abusing your clothing the way you do.

In my opinion, while it may have something to do with laziness (or the fact that you are disorganized) I think the greater reason you may be abusing your wardrobe is because you don’t love it. Like anything else in life, if we love something we want to nurture it and take care of it, regardless of available time or habit. For example, if we love having someone in our life, we make it a point to always call to check in, or do nice things for them. Conversely, if someone is a drain in our life we tend to avoid them or not treat them as nicely as we would if we enjoyed their presence.

The same is true for your clothing. If you are not treating your wardrobe right, start thinking about whether your wardrobe is something that you really love. If it isn’t, it may be time to start incorporating some passion pieces into your wardrobe.

Once you do this, start to notice how much better you take care of the new items in your closet that you love.

9. Assess your space

If you are someone who hates to walk into your closet and choose your outfit for the day, consider that perhaps it isn’t just the wardrobe that is bad, but the closet space itself. If you are someone who opens the closet and feels immediate pangs of anxiety, or feels daunted by the task of merely navigating around to find your favorite sweater, you may want to think about working on the layout of your closet space.

There are a few solutions to this. You can purchase your own wardrobe management tools and do the job yourself. I recommend checking out our Lisa Zaslow’s online store. Lisa is our resident contributor on organization and not only is her selection great, but so are her prices. Click here to visit Lisa’s site.

The other route is to call in a professional. If you are in the New York area, I recommend Astech Closets.

8. Say goodbye to the “icks”

If you are looking to empower your life with an “I am woman, hear me roar!” attitude, then the safest way to start is in the closet. Similar to wardrobe abuse, keeping clothing that you don’t love around has the same negative effect. .

“Oh, come on!” you are probably saying, “It’s only clothing, who cares?” But before you toss out my theory as bunk, think about the last time you wore something that you loved, and how it made you feel. Think about how you interacted with others, how much more confident you felt. Then think about a time when you wore something that you didn’t love, that didn’t express your essence the way you would have liked.

If you are someone who loathes your entire wardrobe, use the “life support” technique I recommend to clients. When you “life support” an item the days of that item are now numbered, and your goal is to replace it in the near future as soon as the budget for that new piece becomes available.

7. Tackle your mending and repair pile

“That pant needs a hem. That shirt is missing a button. Oh, I can’t wear those shoes because they need to be re-soled.” With all of the other things going on in our lives, our mending and repair pile can really become sizeable. This week make it a mission to tackle the pile, and commit to doing something about it.

6. Buy one passion piece

A passionless wardrobe is very common. This week, make it a goal to buy one passion piece for your wardrobe. It doesn’t have to be expensive; perhaps it is a bracelet that caught your eye on the street, a pair of earrings you have been eyeing at the store, or even a new hat that goes with all of your coats. If your wardrobe has been feeling expressionless it is time to infuse it with a little love. If it makes you stop and stare, and it works for your budget, buy it.

The best test to know if something is a passion piece is to walk away from the item. If you find that over the next twenty-four hours your mind is fixated on that item, then go back and purchase it.

5. Buy and wear some sexy underwear— for yourself

To me, there is no better way to honor my feminine side than to wear underwear that makes me feel sexy. Beautiful lingerie doesn’t have to be saved for that someone special. Be your own “someone special” and do it for yourself. If your skivvies have started to look like “granny-central” then make a plan to go and buy one pair of the laciest, frilliest, most girly underwear you can find. If you are someone who has a drawer filled with beautiful undergarments but have been holding off wearing them for the right reason, the right occasion, or the right person, stop waiting; the time is now.

I recently worked with a client who has lost a considerable amount of weight and is joyously wearing clothing several sizes smaller than when we started working together. The last item bought during our most recent session? A pink lacy thong.


4. Clean out your closet

If you haven’t started the New Year with a clean closet then use this week to clean out the space. You don’t have to do a full purge but with self-love as the theme this week, do a quick pass and pull out items that have lost the love. These are the items that you feel less than passionate about, and have time and time again passed over for something else.

Scared to get rid of these things for fear that you may need them? Be honest with yourself - if you have been passing these items over, chances are that you won’t miss them. If you are still hesitant, follow my suggestion of boxing them away and out of sight. Give yourself six months to see if you pull them out of storage. If six months go by and you forget you even had these items, let them go once and for all.

3. Show off your bod

Every woman is clear about what parts of her body she dislikes or would trade in a heartbeat. These are the areas where we immediately focus when we look in the mirror. Let’s face it, these areas aren’t going away tomorrow, and if they did we would find a new area of our body to fixate on.

Instead of damning the areas of your body that you hate, why not celebrate the areas that you love by showing them off. You may have larger thighs but you were blessed with toned arms. Perhaps your stomach isn’t your best feature but man, were you blessed with great legs. Women love to focus on what they don’t have or weren’t blessed with, vs. finding gratitude for the areas that we do love.

Women also don’t often give themselves permission to love their bodies just as they are. Why can’t we be proud, why can’t we look in the mirror with love? There comes a point when we all have to accept that the ideal isn’t going to happen. This does not mean giving up, or sulking in the bathroom because you have cellulite. It means stopping the unrealistic pressure to be something that, without airbrushing and Photoshop, you will never achieve.

The other trap that women fall into is believing that once we look perfect, we will be perfect. That attitude is just a silly hamster wheel, and I encourage all of you who are racing on it to get off immediately. There is no perfect body; there is no perfect size. There is the perfection that you are right now, and this week I encourage you to rediscover those areas that you love and honor them by giving them center stage.


2. Get a fresh new haircut

Isn’t it amazing how a few inches off your hair makes you feel like you’ve lost ten pounds? If you have been dying for a change, the quickest way to throw yourself into it is to make a date with your hairstylist.

I did this about six months ago. Prior to this big change I had variations of the same style for years. The simple trimming of about four inches off my hair changed everything. If you hair has been stuck in a comfort zone for too long, try something new and embrace the effects of change.

1. Do a style collage

So, you want to change your style but you don’t know where to start? Collaging is a great exercise. Before I work with a client I encourage them to rip images from magazines and catalogs that are representative of their desired style. If you are someone who has given thought to a style upgrade, I recommend this exercise to get closer in touch with the inner you who wants to come out,

Start by purchasing some magazines and collecting the catalogs that come in the mail. Set aside an uninterrupted hour to work on this project. Gather supplies like tape or glue and a piece of poster board, or a large piece of paper. Start going through each magazine or catalog and rip out any image that grabs your attention. If you stop on an image rip it out. Don’t think about it too much. There is a reason you are stopping and staring. Don’t muddy this process with thoughts like, “Well I could never wear that!” or “That’s not me.” Just rip and gather. After you have ripped out all of your photos from the magazines and catalogs, lay the images out in front of you. Start taking time to assess each image, looking for the similarities between photos. Perhaps you ripped out a lot images that showcase a particular color, or maybe there is a silhouette that keeps repeating itself. Maybe you will notice a style of jewelry that you have never considered buying before, but through this exercise you start to see it repeating through the images pulled.

After your assessment, start attaching the images as a collage and keep it for reference and inspiration in your closet. In addition, use this collage as an inspirational and working tool when cleaning your closet and shopping. Start by making a list of some of the items or colors that keep showing up in your collage, and make it a point to search for these items on your next shopping trip.

I have learned that the amount of love you have to give to others is equal to the amount of love you are able to give yourself first. This week, I hope that you will all take the time to fill you personal gas tanks with a little style-TLC.

(c) 2005 Bridgette Raes Style Group

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Are you a black-cident?

By Bridgette Raes

Bryian is one of my dearest friends, and what bonds us (aside from our quirky sense of humorj) is our shared fashion background that span more than a decade. Yes, we get excited about fashion talk like two moms get excited sharing the strides their toddlers are making. Recently my friend Bryian called me and said, “I have a new fashion term, it’s called a black-cident.” He went on to explain that a black-cident means the mistake of relying too heavily on black in one's wardrobe. “Oh my God, I love it!” I exclaimed. “A black-cident; this will make for a wonderful article.”

I know from first-hand experience that a reliance on black as the most versatile wardrobe shade is a common faux-pas that I find in most closets. I was recently in a client’s closet and as she pulled out seven pairs of black pants she said, “Here are all my black pants because you can never have enough, of course.” There was such assuredness in her comment as though she wxpected me to reply to her with a, “Duh, well of course.” Instead, my reaction was a very questioning upturn of my eyebrows, which she returned with a stunned look, as if it was 1492 and I was Christopher Columbus trying to convince her that the world wasn’t flat.

I don’t have a fixed agenda to get women off of their black addiction. It’s not as though I am the Betty Ford Clinic of color dependency. Giving up the color black as that one main staple color happens naturally, with little to no effort made by me. All a client needs to change their opinion is an opportunity to actually look at the color black differently, to try other neutral colors, and to see how limiting black can be. And as a client said to me after just one shopping trip:

“I'm so 'off' black slacks. I've bought nice tones of grays and browns because I feel I can wear more color with it.”

And as another client of mine simply said:

“Black sucks!”

Need I say more?

Contrary to popular belief, black is not the most versatile wardrobe color. Yes, it’s an obvious given for most women, but black also has the potential to create a wardrobe that is pedestrian looking, expected and difficult to work with.

If you want to embrace style learn to let go of the black, or at least learn how to bring other colors into your wardrobe to balance out the heaviness of black.

Here are some ways that you can neutralize your black-heavy wardrobe:


Shoes

It’s very common for me to open up a closet, look at the floor of the closet space and see a pile of mismatched black shoes resembling a pile of used tires. The best way to spruce up your wardrobe is to abandon the black shoe for other colors.

There are many ways to do this. My first suggestion is a tan or natural colored shoe in a feminine style. This versatile shoe color should be a staple in the closet. Use of this shoe not only makes an outfit look more sophisticated, it makes the wearer look more sophisticated. If your wardrobe is more tailored, use this shoe color with any of your tailored pants in any color (including black,) and watch the level of sophistication in the outfit rise exponentially. When trading out a black shoe for a tan shoe, many clients have gone from looking like middle management to executive status with this one subtle shoe change.

In addition, tan shoes make a leg look longer because the shoe color is closer to the color of skin. Even if you are of African-American decent or have darker skin, this will still work. Tan shoes with any skirt color is a nice alternative to a clunky, stark black shoe.

The other shoe color substitution is brown. Brown, instead of black, looks great with brown, grey, navy and denim. In addition to being softer than black, brown adds a level of sophistication that black shoes can’t.

Lastly, use your shoes as the pop focus of your outfit. If you feel dull in black, try a colored shoe worn back with a black outfit. My favorite is red, or an ornate shoe style that can punch up an outfit.

Black Pants

Like the ubiquitous black shoes, women also seem to have a strong reliance on black pants. Black pants aren’t versatile, they are limiting. Unlike softer, neutral pant shades such as olive, brown, tan, grey and camel, you can’t be as versatile with black as you can be with these other shades. Why? Well, black doesn’t it lend itself as well to mixing and matching as other shades. Let’s say, for example, that you start with an olive shade of pants. You can bring in a soft pink top and a soft tan jacket and all three colors work together and harmonize well. Conversely, if you put on a black pair of pants with a pink top and light tan jacket, the look still works, but since the black pants are so much heavier and stark, they don't harmonize as nicely.

Secondly, you can’t create tones with black like you can with other colors. Let’s take brown, for example. There are so many shades of brown, from light tan to dark chocolate. And the nice thing about brown is that there is usually a shade of brown for every skin type. By having a spectrum of shades in one color, you can play with different tones in one outfit. Black, on the other hand doesn’t have the same versatility. Of course, grey is an option to creating shades of black, and if you do decide to stick with black then be sure to bring in some grey to balance it out.

Lastly, I have said it before (gazillions of times) but color works back to any neutral pants shade just as effectively as it does with black. Treat other colored bottoms like olive, camel, tan, brown, navy and grey as you would a black pant. In addition, pinstripes, checks and tweeds can be treated like a solid pant. If you have a grey pinstriped pair of pants, any colored top can be worn with this novelty item.

I also want to say that encouraging all of you to trade out your black pants for color does not mean that I want you to go out and buy brightly colored pants. What I am suggesting is that you explore other neutral bottoms like brown, camel, tan, olive, grey and navy. The most balanced wardrobe has at least one pair of pants in those shades (in addition to black) peppered with a few novelty bottoms like the tweed, pinstripe or checks that I mentioned. No, don’t get rid of black completely, simply incorporate other color choices to create balance.

If you are going to wear black you have to do something creative with it.

Do I wear black? Yes, of course. In fact, almost every one of my headshot photos is of me in a black top. I am not anti-black, nor do I think you should eradicate it from your wardrobe forever. Even though I do wear black I will tell you that I have one pair of black pants which I haven’t worn in at least six months. I have one pair of black boots which I wear very infrequently, I have three black turtlenecks (because a black turtleneck is a chosen staple for me) and one black skirt along with a few pop-novelty black pieces peppered throughout my wardrobe. That is the extent of my black clothing. I don’t feel the need for any more than that, and I have never felt limited.

When I do wear black I know I have to do something with it, and those times when I haven’t I have actually had people remark on my lack of creativity. If you start with black as your base, I urge you to get creative. Don’t stop with a black pair of pants and a colored top. How much more boring can you get? Bring in a pop shoe, some accessories, a fun jacket; something, anything to liven up the outfit.

Try it out for yourself

I am not the black police and as I mentioned, I never force a client out of black. This discovery is one that a client normally makes when she is exposed to other avenues than the black that she has clung to as the only way. Instead of thinking that you have to abandon black, test out other shades and see how you feel with them.

Black will look fresh again one day

Fashion is cyclical, and so I believe that one day black will look fresh again. There was a time, in the mid-to-late nineties, when sleek black was all the rage. There will again come a time when we all look to black as a much needed palette cleanser. But until that time comes, I encourage you all to step out of black a bit and start embracing the versatility of other colors.

(c) 2005 Bridgette Raes Style Group

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Fashion Do’s to be a fashion Yes

By Bridgette Raes

The following are 10 quick tips that you can implement to go from a fashion “no” to a fashion “yes!”

Fashion Do #1 -
Do organize your closet by classification from light to dark.


An organized closet is a crucial part of lessening the morning “what to wear” anxieties. A well organized closet is hung by classification, and within each classification your clothing should be organized from light to dark by color category. Doing this can also help you see just how many pairs of black pants you own!

Fashion Do #2 -
Do keep all dry cleaning bags off your clothing


Storage in plastic dry cleaning bags suffocates your clothing. Your clothing needs to breathe, and the longer it is kept in plastic the more quickly the fibers will begin to break down and your clothing will fall apart. Choose cloth garment bags. You can also protect the top of your clothes from getting dusty by cutting off the top half of a dry cleaning bag and placing it over your clothing.

Fashion Do #3 -
Do use baby shampoo and a salad spinner to care for your sweaters


Baby shampoo is much milder than commercial products like Woolite; it is just as effective, and much cheaper. After washing a sweater, spin the wet garment in a salad spinner to eliminate excess water before drying flat. This will cut down on drying time.

Fashion Do #4 -
Do avoid bringing home “orphans” for your wardrobe


When contemplating whether or not you should buy something, either:

•Identify at least two things that already exist in your wardrobe that you can wear with it, or;

•Buy something in the store that works with the piece.

Fashion Do #5 -
Do always ask yourself, “Where am I going in this?”


When contemplating a new clothing purchase, asking yourself this important question will help ensure that you will take only take home things that you will actually wear. If you can’t figure out where you will wear the piece you want to buy, then you have to let it go. Don’t “Wishful Wardrobe!” Wishful wardrobing happens when you buy things for a life you wish you had, versus the one you do have.

Fashion Do # 6 -
Do know when to save and when to spend when on a budget


When on a budget there are areas where you can cut corners, and other areas where it is always smart to invest.

When to spend

Pants that fit
Finding a well-fitting pair of pants is a priceless find.

Shoes
If your feet are comfortable, your whole body is comfortable.

At least one good suit
Cheap suits are gross.

Bras
Because you don’t want to tuck your boobs into your pants when you get older.


When to save


T-shirts
After one season, you can use an old T-shirt for dusting the furniture.

Underwear
Nobody sees your underwear unless you are a pole dancer.

Accessories
Sure we all want the bling, but less expensive accessories can make an outfit look pricey at half the cost.

Fashion Do #7 -
Do wear darker colors where you are the largest


It is true, where you wear a darker color you look the thinnest. However, this does not mean just black! As long as the color is darker where you are larger, next to a lighter color where you are slimmer, this trick will work.

Fashion Do #8 -
Do add vertical lines in your clothing


Vertical lines in a garment make you look slimmer and horizontal lines make you look wider. Vertical lines can be added through pintucking or creasing on a pair of pants, a vertical line of buttons, vertical stripes and ribs on a sweater.

Fashion Do #9 -
Do “upgrade the downgrade” for casual


When a sweater of good quality (like cashmere) starts to show signs of wear, instead of parting with it, downgrade it to casual. The cashmere feels great, and even though it may be a bit shoddy it still looks and feels better than wearing a junky polar fleece, and will do just fine for casual situations.

Fashion Do #10 -
Do wash colored clothing inside out


New clothing always looks great because the color is fresh and bright. To preserve the color longer, wash your colored clothing inside out. Also, always wash colored clothing in cold water. Certain fibers hold color better than others, and cotton fades more quickly than synthetics.

Bonus Fashion Do #11 -
Do think about the main colors in your wardrobe when buying accessories


Many women are daunted by adding accessories to their wardrobes. Where to begin? A great way to start is by identifying the core colors of your wardrobe. If yor wardrobe has a lot of purple, pink and green in it, for example, then start there. To implement the color tripleplay into your wardrobe, think about a complementary color that can be worn with your primary wardrobe colors. Any light shade of green is a great tripleplay accent and complements any top color well. In addtion, always have natural accessory colors on hand when stumped by what color to add.

(c) 2005 Bridgette Raes Style Group

Signup for our weekly newsletter where we not only offer weekly style article written by Bridgette Raes, but also include Style Q&A, Upcoming events, advice from our resident "What To Do Girl", organizing, beauty and financial tips by visiting http://www.bridgetteraes.com/

It’s not you, it’s the pants

By Bridgette Raes

Expanding on the ever-challenging topic of trying to find pants that fit.

Trying on pants is the easiest and quickest way that I know of to get down on yourself and start developing a negative body image. It makes sense; if it is hard to find a pant that fits you properly then the only obvious answer is that there is something wrong with your body, right? Wrong.

As I tell many of my frustrated clients, “It’s not you, it’s the pants. All we have to do is find a pair of pants that flatters your body shape.” If you still aren’t convinced that it isn’t you but the pants, keep in mind that I have worked with all body types from a slim size two to a curvier size twenty-two. It doesn’t matter what shape or size you are, the wrong pant on the wrong body simply isn’t flattering. So here are some suggestions on how to find the right pant for your body, along with some tailoring suggestions to make the not-so-perfect pant fit perfectly.

“Ready to wear” isn’t so ready to wear

It is becoming more and more accepted that pants off the rack rarely work for anyone. From needing something as minor as a hem to requiring some major tweaks, few women can grab a pair of pants and go. Even I, at 5’7”, often need at least a hem. So if you are someone who can’t seem to find a pair of pants that fit, consider tailoring as your additional step.

When I recommended tailoring in the past I got an irate email from a reader. This reader felt that it was unrealistic to suggest tailoring as a necessary step. Living in the Midwest, she felt that it wasn’t as easy to tailor as it is in a more metropolitan area. Now, I am not the savviest when it comes to knowing much about the lifestyle in the Midwest, but I do know that there must be a local dry cleaner in most towns. Most dry cleaners offer tailoring services which are usually fine for your needs. In addition, if you need something as minor as a hem, a store like Banana Republic will offer hemming for free. If you feel that the pants cost enough and the last thing you want to do is pay more for tailoring, consider changing your thinking; if you ARE paying for a well made pair of pants, doesn’t it make sense to have them look as though they fit you well?

When it comes to the fit of pants there are small improvements you can make to enhance the fit, and then there are more extensive things you can consider. Here are some examples:

Remove pocket bags from flat front pants and stitch the pockets closed. When it comes to flat front pants like this one http://www.bananarepublic.com/browse/product.do?cid=5029&pid=362219&mlink=5029,187705&clink=187705, no matter how slim you are the pockets are going to bag open. In some cases you may find that these pockets lay flat on first wearing, but after several wears they start to bag open. Bagged open pockets at your hip area makes your hips look bigger, and nobody wants that. The solution is to have them stitched shut, and while getting the pockets stitched have the pocket bags removed. If you have any extra on your thigh, the line of the pocket bag will show through the pant.

Forget the waist. When I started writing this article I called on my dear friend Jerry Dellova who is the head designer at Barry Bricken, a company famous for the fit of their pants. My early days of being a designer were with Barry Bricken under Jerry’s fine tutelage. Not having actively designed for several years now my knowledge of pant fit isn’t what it used to be, so I wanted to get a seasoned expert involved to ensure that my memory was correct. The first bit of advice Jerry gave me was that unlike men, who fit their pants at the waist, women need to fit their pants at the hip because for most women, it is the widest part of our bodies. When fitting pants ladies, think first about your hip size and worry about the waist later. Taking a pant in at the waist is an easy correction for a tailor to do. So the next time you try on a pair of pants, focus on the fit through the hips and thighs.

If you are someone who carries their weight at their waist always look inside a pair of pants to see if there is what is referred to as a center back outlet in the pant. A center back outlet is an excess of seam allowance fabric at the back seam of a pant, which gives you the ability to let the pant out if need be. Most well made pants have this center back outlet. If the pants are lined and you can’t see if there is a center back outlet on the pants you are trying on, pull the lining up and out from the hem of the pant and put your hand up the pant leg with the lining removed to find the center back seam of the pant. You should be able to look through the pant leg and see. Any tailor should be able to let the pant out at the waist if you need it.

Saddle up. I explained a tricky fit situation that I recently experienced with a client to my friend Jerry. This client was petite but she also carried the majority of her weight in her stomach and had very narrow hips. As a result, we kept finding that any pant we tried on her pulled and bit at the bottom of her butt. The reason there was pulling like this was because the fabric was pulling forward to compensate for her stomach see this image for an example of what the pant looked like http://reps.scullyleather.com/images/WA/564552-preview.jpg. Normally in a situation like this I would find a pant with a more relaxed and wider thigh area to give her more fabric in the thigh and lower butt area. But because this client was petite, I also had to be careful about how full a leg I put on her. A fuller leg on a petite woman can make her look shorter. After trying on many pants we finally found one that was flattering and didn’t bite at her butt. But there is another solution to this problem.

If you have ever tried on a pair of pants that feel like they are too tight or pulling in the crotch, or you look at yourself from behind in the mirror and see that the pant is cutting or biting you in the butt area, you may find that you need more of what is called saddle. The saddle of a pant, as Jerry reminded me, is the seam of the crotch that runs perpendicular to the rise. For those of you who don’t know what rise is, the front rise of a pant is the seam that runs from your bellybutton to the base of your crotch, the back rise is what runs from your crotch to the top of the back of a pair of pants. The saddle seam runs perpendicular to that. Take a pair of pants and look at the crotch area. You will see seams that run in the opposite direction to the rise that intercept right at base of your crotch. A well made pair of pants will give you some excess fabric allowance in the saddle seam that allows you to increase the width. Increasing the saddle width will ultimately give you more room in this area which is great for women with a tummy, larger thighs or a fuller bottom.

Extra fabric at a saddle isn’t commonly found on pants and it is usually only well made pants that have this feature. But it is an important one, and a reason why it is also important to spend a little more on pants. To see if a pair of pants have extra in the saddle for letting out, check inside the pant if it is unlined, or pull the lining away as suggested above. Jeans will not have excess fabric in the saddle. Upon checking a pair of Banana Republic pants in my closet I found that there is a small amount of seam allowance that would allow the saddle to be let out, but note that it isn’t a tremendous amount.

I don’t want to tailor, I want ready to wear!

So you have read about what you can do with a pair of pants from a tailoring standpoint and decided that it is too much work. The last thing you want to be bothered with is construction technology; you just want pants that fit. Okay, I hear you. Here are some fit solutions for a variety of women’s body issues:

Large Thighs

•Go for the boot cut pant which counterbalances a large thigh, or choose a straighter leg that hangs straight from the largest part of your thigh. Throw the peg-legged pants away!
•Tops that have a wider neck have the same effect as a boot cut pant by counterbalancing a large thigh. Instead of wearing tops that cut in, choose a wider neckline which will optically make your thighs look smaller. Halter tops are no-no’s for large-thighed gals.

Tummy

•Choose a side zip pant over a front closure pant. You don’t need to add excess to a place that already has fullness.
•Choose a pant with a wider waistband (even if it is a low rise pant.) The large band sucks you in and gives you support. Just make sure that it isn’t sucking you in so much that it causes your stomach to spill over.


Big Butt

•Avoid high rise pants. The excess fabric makes your butt look big.
•Choose a wider leg pant which won’t cup the butt and will give you more room.

If there is anything that I would like you to remember from this article, it is that there are pants out there for every fit and figure. Yes, it takes time, but I have yet to have a client finish working with me without finding a pair of pants that is flattering for her figure. Don’t give up if it takes a few stores or brands to find your well-fitting pant, it happens to everyone. And most importantly, don’t beat yourself up that you aren’t thin enough or don’t have the perfect body. Is there really a perfect body out there? The most empowered attitudes about pant fit come from my clients who are African American. Knowing that pants are seldom made to fit with their body shape in mind (which is usually fuller in the thigh and butt area) they don’t blame their bodies; they blame the negligence of the pant manufacturers for overlooking their needs.

Many of these clients have learned to be persistent, understand that tweaking and tailoring is a necessity, and never have they considered that it is their body that is the problem. This is the way they are built, they tell me, and they make no apologies for that. I think we can all learn something from this positive attitude. The next time you have a hard time finding a pair of pants that fit you, remember that instead of mapping out your next crash diet.

(c) 2005 Bridgette Raes Style Group

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Review of Spring Continued

By Bridgette Raes

Last week, I reviewed five of the ten new spring trends found in Marie Claire’s article, The Ten Looks You’ll Want This Spring, which is showcased in their February issue. As promised, this week I am tackling the remaining five trends from this Marie Claire article in an effort to give you some guidelines on how to incorporate these trends into your spring wardrobe.

So onto the remaining five

Marie Claire’s Must Have #6 - Polished Pantsuits

For most women, the pantsuit (or a suit in general) is no longer a necessity in the workplace any longer. Many of my clients who do work in a corporate environment tell me that their office dress code is business casual. Even though the suit is passé in many offices, I still think it is important to have at least one suit on hand in your wardrobe.

But what if your lifestyle doesn’t dictate that you need to wear a suit? While a pantsuit seems like an unnecessary and expensive purchase, every woman should have at least one suit on hand that becomes a versatile multi-tasker. This suit needs to be on hand for funerals, interviews, luncheons, functions, evenings out, etc. Most women automatically assume that a black suit would be the most versatile color to choose. While choosing a black suit isn’t a bad way to go, I think there are other color choices that work better. The most versatile color I would choose would be grey. Why grey? Firstly, a medium grey color is considered a universal color which works with all skin tones. Black, on the other hand, does not work for everyone. In addition, grey can be worn more universally. A grey suit is a better interview color than black as grey evokes feelings of loyalty in others, while black does not have the same effect. Still not sold on grey? Black, while it seems funeral appropriate, is also incredibly trite. You don’t have to wear black to a funeral and grey does the job equally well, as long as it is partnered with more understated colors. A funeral is not the time to wear a juicy spring colored print with your grey suit. Lastly, and I know I sound like a broken record, but any color that can be worn with black, can be worn with grey. In my opinion, grey looks ten times more sophisticated than black does when worn with color. Plus, you can also wear brown with grey, something that you can’t do as easily with black. Lastly, you can take grey to evening by simply making sure that the rest of the components are evening appropriate. As far as fabric goes, if this is going to be the only suit in your wardrobe, choose a versatile fabric like a flatter, lighter weave fabric such as a lightweight wool or wool blend with little to no texture.



Marie Claire Must Have #7 - The Easy Dress

Can it be that the dress is finally making a triumphant return? The dress market has been dead for some time now. In fact, years ago, when working as a designer, I vividly remember the dress division trying to figure out how to revive the dress for day because for the past few years dresses were only selling for evening. Fashion is cyclical and while the skirt has been in the forefront, the dress is picking up momentum.

Let’s take a look at the word “easy”. Looking at Marie Claire’s use of the word “easy dress” doesn’t mean that the dress has to be relaxed in look. So don’t worry gals, this doesn’t mean that we will all be walking around in muumuus this spring. I find this to be a relief considering I am a big proponent their being shape and fit in clothing to make you look slimmer. Easy, according to Marie Claire, means effortless or simple.

If you try a dress on for spring and it feels and looks boring, keep in mind that the dress is merely the foundation of the total outfit. You have to do something with it to make it exciting. The answer is accessorizing. Don’t forget to finish the look!

Marie Claire Must Have #8 - The New Coat

Every wardrobe needs a hit of novelty to add some spice and personality. This spring, according to Marie Claire, is the “strategically purchased killer coat”. Here are some key points to take into consideration when purchasing your “killer coat” for spring.

Marie Claire’s recommendation is to purchase a great coat which will make the underpinnings you wear with it a moot point. Ok, love Marie Claire, but hate this advice. While it is a great recommendation in theory, how many of you walk around all day in your coat (even if it is a light-weight spring duster style)? What are you supposed to do when you take your coat off? A statement coat is fun but make sure that you don’t have to keep it on all day to look stylish. Yes, I agree with Marie Claire that if your coat pops keep the rest of your outfit relatively simple, but before leaving the house, make sure that when you do take your coat off, you still like the way you look.

Another bit of advice from Marie Claire that had me concerned was their recommendation of a “full-volume cut” in the coat as being a perfect accompaniment to full-bodied skirts and dresses this spring. Ok, does Marie Claire want us to get lost in tons of fabric? This idea is pretty and theory but can be disastrous in application. Remember, don’t just listen to the trend reports and follow like blind sheep. Try this one out and don’t buy anything if you think you look like a pup-tent.

Marie Claire Must Have #9 - Heels

The two big trends in heels this spring, according to Marie Claire, are platforms and ankle straps. I may be thin, but when I read ankle straps, I am reminded of my thick ankles and decide to not even consider this trend. I am also 5’7” and must ask myself if platforms are right for me.

This is where trend dictation needs to take a backseat to your own lifestyle, physical characteristics and personal style. Not sure if you are going to partake? Here are a few guidelines:

If you are petite, have large ankles or calves, short legs or small feet then step away from the ankle straps. The horizontal line of the strap can make your legs look shorter and wider. Lovely, right?

Platforms are fun and can obviously make you look taller. But they can also make your feet look shorter and stubbier. Avoid a very round toe if you want to wear a platform shoe if your feet are already short as a platform with a rounded toe will make your feet look shorter. Platforms can also look very retro. When I think platforms, I either think 1940’s or 1970’s. As Marie Claire advised, and I agree, the platform can be your “over- the-top-statement”, so make sure everything else you wear with these platforms isn’t too over the top or a throwback to yesteryear.

Marie Claire Must Have #10 - Detailed Bags

This trend excites me because I have been preaching it for years. Keep your outfit simple and bang it out with accessories including the detailed, or as I like to call it, statement bag. One of my biggest pet peeves is a boring, nothing handbag. Many women don’t realize if they just chose a functional AND interesting bag that showcased their personality, they would be well on their way to being more stylish.

A very common argument that I get from clients when I encourage them to purchase a stylish, statement bag is that it is too much to think about. They automatically assume that if I am recommending a statement bag that I am also recommending that they go through the routine of changing their bag frequently to work with their outfits. This is not the case. Just because you choose a statement bag does not mean it doesn’t have to be versatile. Like Marie Claire says in their article, “Splurge on one fabulous handbag to reflect your personality, and take it everywhere you go.” Sounds like good advice to me.

Let me give you an example of this advice. I worked with a client this past month. Often choosing to shop for accessories after clothing has been bought, my client and I were finishing up our shopping together by looking for a great handbag. While shopping we found this stunning and versatile handbag by Michael Kors at Lord and Taylor. It was a medium brown shade that was both stunning to look and versatile. When we met up in her closet after finishing our shopping together, I showed her how this bag (which was an investment) could be worn with just about every outfit in her closet. From casual to work, she could tote this bag along. The bag was big enough, versatile enough and functional enough for her life, but at the same time eye catching, stylish enough and a true statement of her style. Don’t buy the illusion about handbags ladies, you can have it all stylish and functional in one bag. Toss those inconspicuous, ugly standard bags out the window. You don’t need them.

(c) 2005 Bridgette Raes Style Group

Signup for our weekly newsletter where we not only offer weekly style article written by Bridgette Raes, but also include Style Q&A, Upcoming events, advice from our resident "What To Do Girl", organizing, beauty and financial tips by visiting http://www.bridgetteraes.com/